Or better yet, if you have a Mityvac hand vacuum pump with gauge, plug the vac. Full advance coming around 14 to 18 inches.Īre you sure the decal didn't have a 1 smudged out and it really means 10 when it looks like 0? I would set the base timing at 10 degrees and then while the engine is running plug the vacuum advance into a full manifold vacuum port and see if the RPM's change. Does this mean that the vaccuum advance module is faulty or not receiving vaccuum?Īs far as I know 8 inches is right about where a vacuum advance will start to adjust timing. When I get to 1500 rpm, I only get 10 degrees advance (mechanical?). When I hook the vaccuum hose back up, and check the timing, I get no additional advance at idle. Also I get 5 inches vaccuum at the carb advance port at 800 rpm. I confirmed that I get roughly 10 degrees mechanical advance at 1500 rpm. I set the base timing at 0 degrees with the vaccuum advance vaccuum line unhooked and the carb port plugged. Problem #2 relates to the vaccuum advance. I'm sure 0 degrees is ultra-conservative just for initial startup. Now, can anyone tell me where the base timing should be set? The label on the radiator support states something to the effect of setting base timing at 0 degrees and adjust for best performance for propane conversion, set at 12 degrees BTDC. was a TDC, I figured out that the timing tab on the passenger side of the engine corresponds to the mark on the pulley and not the notch. Which one should I be using to check the timing?ģ) Is the pulley "keyed" to the crankshaft such that it cannot slip, or is it just a "press" fit such that it may have slipped causing the marks to be off?Ĥ) Is there a harmonic balancer on this engine? Which one should I be checking the timing on? My 40 degrees advance is referenced from the timing tab on the passenger side of the engine.Ģ) There is a mark and a notch on the crank pulley about 45 degrees apart. However, when I check the timing with a timing light, I'm reading 40 degrees advance with the vacuum advance unhooked.ġ) There are timing marks cast into the timing cover, and a timing "tab" on the block on the passenger side of the water pump. I can crank the engine and get it running smoothly by tuning the timing and carb with a vacuum gauge. It has the duraspark distributor and non-feedback carb. I am working on tuning a 1984 300 6cyl and can't quite figure out what's going on with the ignition timing. Hopefully someone with more experience than me can help me with this problem.
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